DAY 6
01/14/05 (writing@Mint on 01/16/05 8.53PM, my lazy Saturday, sitting with John & Chris)
Today is one of a big day of the trip. CEPT provided a field trip of Ahmedabad city for the attendees of the conference. It started at 6:15 AM. I couldn't believe that I can pulled myself up that early. Everyone was ready on time but the bus was late for almost 45 min. This becomes typical thing that everyone has to admit that an appointment time in India is very unstable. Similar to Thailand I'd say, so it didn't bother me much.
We started with the "Heritage Walk". We walked from the big temple which I can't remember the name. It's bigger and more elaborate than normal temple that I saw on the street. It's a very first temple built at the very early period of Ahmedabad city establishment. I think it's also located at the original point of city development. An architecture of the temple is similar to "Wat Kheak" on Silom road. All the architecture elements such as columns, roofs, doors, and windows are decorated with colorful figures. Then we walked from the temple to the local residential community called "Pol". I think it's similar to the word "Village". Pol has a very interesting characteristic. It has a strong sense of community by having a very small street as a circulation path that spread around like a nerve system in human body. All the building have European influence in architecture elements. They all have 2-3 stories high with the balcony facing each other. When I walked on that little street in the Pols. I barely get the sun light because of the height and the arrangement of the buildings. It's like walking the the forest. According to an organic plan, it's very easy to get lost if you are not familiar with the place. As I mentioned before about a strong sense of community in this place, when I was walking around I saw all the activities of the people who live there. They are cleaning their cloths, reading newspaper, preparing to go out for work, etc. It'd be untrue if I don't mention about the cows. They are one of an important part of this society. They are like a dog on the street, dogs that have owners but the owner let them go out of the house, in Bangkok. I love the plan and organization of the Pol but one thing that I don't like is the hygiene of the place. If it's clean, it'd look a lot nicer.
Regarding a point of cleanness, I think from the outsider view they might look to this place very dirty but from the local perspective they don't feel a thing. I believe that if we clean the place, the local won't be happy for that. Moreover, from my observation, I think that there are lots of beautiful architecture and interesting places but with Indian people behavior they can not keep it clean and organized. No offend, I respect their culture and I think this is the way that they live.
Next stop from the "Heritage Walk", the hi-light of it was an old big temple which I don't feel anything interesting so I won't say about it, we were visit the first building built in Indian by Le Corbusier. This building is an office of a Textile Company. This is my first experience in Corbu's buidling. I was very excited about it and the building doesn't let me down. It was amazing to experience a space that had been carefully designed. The plan is so organic. It seems like there is no single corner in this building. The circulation is very flow but yet in control in a way. Nihal said this building has a volumatic space. I'm kinda agree with that, even though I don't quite clear about that term. The pureness of the material; exposed concrete, steel, glass, and wood very well represents the idea of Modernism. It seems like a furnishing part of the building had already been determined since the first design stage. Because I saw the benches and tables that are made by concrete and be apart, like emerging from the concrete floor, of the building. Also the building responses quite well with the context. I can see from the sun shading on the front facade and the void to see the lake view on the back. Just to see this building, it's totally worth for this field trip.
From the Modernist's design, we went to see the ancient Sultan's Tomb and Step well. They are both very historically beautiful. Just like in other countries that have their long history and culture, all the beautiful art and architecture were put in the temple and tomb. The very well crafted wall, column, window, doors, and even floor had been combined together with an essence of traditional Indian architecture. One thing in the tomb that caught my intention is a grid arrangement of the columns. It reminded me to one scene in the LOTR: The fellowship of the rings. The scene that they go pass underneath the mountain where the old mine located. Even the decoration on the surface of the column has a similar character. For the Step well, first I was kinda disappointed because I saw just a couple structure above the ground. But after I waked closer and closer, I was so stupid to make a prejudgement before seeing the whole thing. Underneath the ground, there is the amazing structure and beautiful architecture of the main stair and lead to the sacred well. They were made from sand stone with an overwhelmed religious related decoration.
After that we had lunch and attended one lecture about sustainability design at Environmental Sanitation Institute, ESI. It was a very good lecture regarding the concept design and the purposes of this center. People who has interest in green and sustainability design should listen to this. The sustainability design were involved from the land adjustment to building design until the maintenance process. Moreover, the speaker said this idea had been introduced by Gandhi.
Next place, we stopped to see another kind of European influenced architecture at Entrepreneurship Development Institute of India. For me, it's kinda like a Chataeu in France, just the scale and planning quite too big to be the house. From my understanding, this place is for a upper class student because it's very clean and very well organized with security system. Again, like I mention before, there are some spot in the building that shown the Indianess. I saw spit stains and disordering desks and tables.
Everyone agree that this is such a long long field trip. It's already 5 o'clock in the evening but we still have two more places to visit. Then we made to the Gandhi Ashram. It was a place that Gandhi spent most of his life lived and fought for the independence of India. NIhal told us to be more focus to observe this place to see how Gandhi live and design his own place in his own ideology which is related with the vernacular idea. I saw a Hollywood movie "Gandhi" before I came here. Therefore, it's inevitable to compare between the real and the movie. For me, this place really represent the Gandhi's ideology of simplicity of life. Since we had such a short time to visit, some of us will come back to this place again for sure.
Last stop, we visited Sangath, Doshi's architectural office, to see how Le Corbusier influences this leading Indian architect. It was very impressive at the first step that I walked in. Just like good architect should do, every single element of the project had been carefully designed. The approach to the building is leaded by a gravel path which is not go directly to the building. Instead, it took us to the rim of the site passing the beautiful garden. After few minutes past the garden, I saw the roof the office which is located just several meters above the ground. That means most of the building are hided underneath the ground. After one round of walk, I would say this building truly has Corbu influence but not like mimicking. I think the plan and circulation of the building that told me. Walking along the path of the office, it's very flow that I was so surprised that I was going outside - inside, above - below the ground without noticing. This is such a good experience. Again, we had a short of time and it's already dark. I will come back to this place again for sure.
Well.. that was the hell of the day. Such a toughest one day trip of my life. I know I complaint too much. I had another thought that comparing with what I could do in a normal day of my life in Muncie. Today, I have been through things more than a year in Muncie.
(to be continued)
BiGGa